Ten thousand square miles of mangrove forest, bamboo, and sago palms have long sheltered the Asmat region from outsiders. At high tide, our ship enters the shallow channel of the Flamingo River to anchor near the village of Agats, the regional capital of the Asmat. A remote riverine world is revealed as Zodiacs carry you along narrow waterways lined with the entwined branches of thick mangrove forests, home to Torresian Imperial Pigeons, Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, and bright red lorikeets. As you make your way upstream, villagers – whooping and chanting in elaborate warrior gear and paint – paddle vigorously toward you in intricately carved canoes to escort you ashore where an enthusiastic welcome awaits. A walk along elevated wooden boardwalks leads to a cathedral with superb carvings, and museum with displays of ancestor poles, drums, body masks, shields, daggers, and skulls; a reminder that cannibalism and head-hunting was practiced by the ancestors of some villagers. Asmat woodcarvings are known for their powerful lines and coarse, expressive motifs, and are widely considered by collectors and scholars to be among the world’s finest carvings and can be purchased directly from the village artisans.